Think rabbits make a good starter pet because they are inexpensive, low-maintenance, and stoic? Toni Kim, a veterinary student at the University of Illinois and a House Rabbit Society educator, wants to dispel common misconceptions about these floppy-eared pets.
Just like dogs and cats, rabbits need routine veterinary care, opportunities to express their extremely active and social natures, and a dedicated owner. They also have needs unique to their species.
Rabbit Enclosures
“Rabbits, just like our cats and dogs, need room to exercise, explore, and play,” says Kim. “The vast majority of cages sold in pet stores are insufficient in size to house even the smallest single rabbit.”
The Rabbit Welfare Association & Fund recommends a 6′ x 3′ enclosure for a singleton rabbit and a 10′ x 6′ area for a bonded pair. Many owners use an exercise pen made for dogs. “Other owners are more creative and make their own enclosure using metal grid squares zip-tied together to custom fit their space,” states Kim.
The flooring should be soft enough to avoid causing trauma to the feet. It should also be textured and sturdy enough that the rabbit does not slip. Appropriate flooring options include mats, fleece blankets, a sheet of linoleum, or other material to both protect their flooring and make their rabbit comfortable.
“Metal wire flooring should never be used as it leads to pododermatitis (inflammation of the feet) and other medical problems,” Kim says.
Rabbits can also be kept free-roaming in the home, but only after all spaces have been bunny-proofed to remove hazards. “All electrical cords should be raised or covered with tubing, houseplants should be kept out of reach, rodent poisons or traps should not be on the property, baseboards should be protected, and any valuable items should be kept out of reach,” explains Kim.
Litter Boxes
“Within the enclosure, owners should provide a litter box filled with newspaper, paper-based bedding, and timothy hay, in that order; two heavy ceramic dishes (one for food and another for water), a space to hide, and enrichment items,” Kim says. “Hanging water bottles are not recommended. They cause rabbits to drink in an unnatural position and limit the amount rabbits can drink at a given time.”
Cat litter, pine and/or cedar shavings, and corn cob should not be used. These items can be toxic if ingested or can become caked into rabbit fur.
Enclosures should be kept tidy with spot cleanings daily and thorough cleanings weekly.
Rabbits in Pairs
Given a rabbit’s social behavior, Kim strongly recommends keeping them in pairs.
She says, “This allows them to exhibit natural social interactions and provides a crucial source of companionship. Especially as rabbits age, they may require assistance when caregivers cannot be there.”
Successful pairing necessitates both rabbits being spayed or neutered and allowing adequate recovery time post-surgery before starting introductions.
“The bonding process itself is complex and requires dedication, including sufficient space and patience, which not all households can provide,” Kim says. “For owners facing challenges with bonding two rabbits, many rescue organizations offer expert guidance or provide the option of adopting pre-bonded pairs.”
Single housing is an option in certain circumstances, such as in households where a caregiver is consistently present at home.
Handling and Enrichment
Because rabbits are prey animals—meaning they are hunted in the wild—they naturally dislike being held off the ground. Handle pet rabbits in ways that do not distress them.
“It’s all about technique!” Kim says. “The most important tips for picking up a rabbit are supporting the rabbit’s hind end and staying close to the floor.
“Your dominant hand should be placed under the rib cage to support the upper body, and your non-dominant hand should scoop the hind end at the pelvis. The rabbit should be pulled close to the holder’s chest.”
She recommends spending time with your rabbit outside of its pen to provoke mental and physical stimulation.
“Rabbits require gentle handling, but the best type of interaction requires no handling at all,” Kim explains. “Lie on the floor and read or watch television, letting the rabbit come to you.”
Other forms of enrichment include encouraging natural behaviors such as exploration, digging, chewing, and eating. Snuffle mats, blocks or sticks from untreated apple wood, tunnels, ramps, balls, and stacking cups are all great options.
“Though many products are sold in stores, sometimes simple items, like cardboard boxes, can keep your rabbit entertained,” says Kim.
Healthy Diet for Rabbits
“To ensure proper dental maintenance and gut health, at least 80% of an adult rabbit’s diet should be timothy hay. Provide the other 20% as a heaping handful of fresh, dark leafy greens twice daily,” she says.
Non-citrus fruits and high-sugar vegetables (like carrots) can be fed as a treat. However, they should be limited to twice a week and no larger than a quarter in size. Make sure to wash all fresh produce thoroughly to remove dirt and debris before providing it to your rabbit.
“Rabbits should not be provided pellets with any additives, such as corn, oats, wheat, dried fruits or nuts,” says Kim. “Other food items that should be avoided include iceberg lettuce, legumes, and vegetables in the cabbage family.”
Medications
“Owners should administer medications to their rabbit only when specifically prescribed by a rabbit-savvy exotics veterinarian,” warns Kim. “Many over-the-counter medications that are safe for dogs, cats, and horses are toxic to rabbits.”
Similarly, little scientific evidence exists to show that probiotics and prebiotics formulated for other species are effective in rabbits.
“Rabbit-specific supplements exist, but the best way to ensure that your rabbit receives all the nutrients it needs is to provide routine veterinary care, follow proper husbandry recommendations, and feed a variety of leafy greens every day,” Kim states.
Grooming Rabbits
“Rabbits need their nails checked monthly and trimmed every 6 to 8 weeks. Rabbits also molt their coats twice a year in accordance with the seasonal change,” explains Kim. “During this time, they need to be brushed. Rabbits with longer fur require more frequent grooming to avoid matted, tangled and knotted fur.”
Rabbits, like cats, can get hairballs. In contrast to cats, rabbits cannot regurgitate the hairballs, which can lead to an intestinal obstruction or block.
“Rabbits should not be bathed due to the likelihood of hypothermia and/or a life-threatening condition in which the body does not have enough blood flow to meet its needs (i.e., shock),” Kim says. “However, warm water ‘butt baths’ may be necessary. If advised by a veterinarian, these can be slowly introduced to senior or obese rabbits with limited mobility, unable to clean themselves who have hind ends dirty with feces.”
Rabbits should be completely dry before they are returned to their enclosure.
Rewarding Companionship
“When you first get a rabbit, they may be scared and untrusting of you,” says Kim. “However, over time, with consistency and patience, your bond will grow as you get to know each other.
“It is so rewarding the first time a rabbit allows you to pet its head or lies beside you on the couch. Rabbits have a curiosity that is so endearing, and they can be hilarious to watch as they zoom around the room and do acrobatic jumps. They are so different from any other species!”
By Cassidy Kelly
Featured photo, courtesy of Emily Rolson, shows her rabbit Moose in his room. (He outgrew the various enclosures his family had for him!) Because Moose is too large for most products marketed for rabbits, his litter box is the lower half of a dog crate. He also has a water bowl, “snuffle mat” for rooting out treats, and places to hide.
